If you’re looking for a great way to get a full-body workout in your own backyard, then consider building a chin-up bar! This project is relatively simple and inexpensive, and it’s a great way to get some fresh air and sunshine while you work out. Plus, it’s a great way to build some upper body strength. Here’s how to build a backyard chin-up bar in just a few simple steps.

Gyms and sports clubs, stadiums and specially equipped rooms – that’s great. But the bar next to the house has not stopped anyone yet. Let’s figure out how to make it.

Planning to make an outdoor chinning bar with their own hands, it is necessary to choose not only the modification, but also the material. Most often, wood or metal is used to create a structure.

Wooden products are the easiest to make, do not require special tools, are strong enough (subject to the correct selection of the section of lumber), but, unfortunately, not too durable and can be damaged by excessive weight of the user or improper application of the load.

Metal complexes are stronger, more reliable and durable, but they require skills to work with metal – cutting, welding, painting.

Both types of constructions are either fixed on the existing support or on the supports that are as strong as possible fixed in the ground/ground.

Girder dimensions

Standard products are made according to the dimensions of a certain “average user”. If the chinning bar on the street will be made by your own hands, it is logical to design it immediately under your physical features.

One of the most important parameters is height. As can be seen from the diagram, the distance from the bar (bar) to the floor (ground) should be approximately equal to 1.28 x height. That is, for an adult with height of 164 cm the bar should be at a height of about 210 cm, and for a child with height of 140 cm – at about 180 cm. This distance takes into account the height plus arm length. If your arms are noticeably shorter/longer than the standard, you can check this for yourself by standing on tiptoes and stretching upwards as far as possible. The height to which the fingertips reach is the approximate height of the chinning bar. If the chinning bar is made for the whole family with children, it is acceptable to count on their height. In this case, the adult performs pull-ups and other exercises with the legs tucked in.

Important: regardless of the height of the bar, there should be at least 32…35 cm to the obstacle located above (ceiling, canopy, tree branches, etc.). Otherwise there is a risk of hitting your head on the obstacle when you pull up sharply.

For “pulling up with exit” (photo above) and some other exercises of walkout you must provide free space above the bar for about half of your height (from the line passing through the center of your lowered fists to the top of your head).

Distance between supports. In standard products this parameter is 1…1.5 m. Of course, if the chinning bar will be attached to ready-made supports (for example, between two walls), this distance is known in advance. If not, it is better to determine it according to your own physical parameters.

The minimal distance between supports of the chinning bar is the width of your shoulders (or thighs, stomach – who has what is wider?) plus 5…10 cm, and the normal distance is the distance between your elbows fully moved apart plus 5…10 cm.

The last important size is the diameter of the tube that the user holds while exercising. Here the same rule is followed as in the selection of the barbell diameter – the girth depends on the girth of the wrist. The bigger the wrist, the greater the girth should be. We recommend 26 mm or smaller tubes for wrists of 13,5 cm or less (children), 28-30 mm for wrists of 14…17 cm (teenagers, women, small men), and 30-35 mm for wrists of 17-21 cm.

According to another method, calculations can be made as follows: measure the width of the palms at the base of the fingers and multiply the received number in centimeters by 3,3. Then, the calculated size is rounded to the nearest larger multiple of five. For example, for a palm with a width of 8.5 cm, the diameter of the bar would be 28.05 mm, rounded to 30 mm. Increasing the diameter to 35 cm makes sense with very long fingers/brushes. It is advisable to check the calculations experimentally.

For a wall-mounted horizontal bar, the distance from the wall to the bar can also be considered significant. Usually it is equal to two or three thicknesses of the body and is rarely chosen less than 55 cm.

The simplest chinning bar on the dacha with their own hands

If there are two solid walls at a distance of 1,2 … 1,5 m from each other, you can install the chinning bar directly on them.

For this purpose, you need:

• pipe of a suitable diameter and length, for example, a diameter of 32 mm, length 1,4 m;
• fixings for the pipe – anchor bolts, 2 pcs;
• a hammer or a hand hammer for hammering out the hole for the pipe. If the wall is brick, you can knock out one brick from the masonry, if monolithic – make a hole big enough to install the pipe and fixture;
• mortar to seal the hole after installation.

The order of the work:

• chisel holes in the walls, clean them from construction debris;
• the pipe is cut to the right size, at the ends of drill holes to the diameter of the anchor;
• the same holes located vertically are drilled in the recesses on the walls;
• anchors are put in the holes in the recesses;
• fasten the pipe on the anchors;
• tighten the nuts on the anchors;
• plug the holes.

After the mortar has fully cured, you can begin to work.

If there is no desire to chisel the wall, you can do something simpler, and attach the tube with the help of angles or other connecting metal parts.

An even easier way is to use a ready-made spreader bar.

How to Make a U-shaped Chinning Bar with Supports from a Bar

In this case, you will need a solid bar, a log or a board for the posts and a round bar for the crossbar. The latter is better to use not just cut and plucked branches of suitable size, and buy quality wood, past chamber drying, and hardwood – oak, beech, elm, walnut. You can replace such a crossbar with a metal tube.

The necessary materials for a horizontal bar with the above scheme:

• bar 100×100 mm or round bar with a diameter of 100…120 mm;
• round bar or a tube of 30 to 35 mm in diameter with the length of 1.2 m or longer
• cement mortar with the addition of slag or crushed stone for concreting the supports;
• brackets or fixing elements for fixing the crossbar.

Additionally, it is possible to perform struts to strengthen the structure.

Important: if the distance between the supports of the rung is more than 1.2 m, you should not use a wooden bar, too high a risk of its damage from uneven loads!

Performing the work:

• Prepare holes for the installation of the posts. The depth should not be less than 0.5 m, with an increase in the weight / height of the user it is necessary to increase the depth as well. So, for a horizontal bar with the height of the crossbar 2.2 m and above, it is better to deepen the posts by 0.7 … 0.8 m. Pay attention, the depth of a hole under a post should be on 10…15 cm more, than a planned deepening;
• At the bottom of the hole to arrange a cushion of a mixture of sand and crushed stone, pure sand or crushed stone, rubble and other similar materials 10…15 cm thick. It is desirable to perform tamping;
• The poles, cut to the desired height, wrap the bottom part of the waterproofing material (Ruberoid) by bitumen coating and set on a level in the pits. To prevent the posts from sagging, support them with temporary braces;
• Concrete the posts and wait until the concrete strength is at least 50% (3 … 7 days depending on the weather);
• Install the crossbar horizontally. There may be any mounting method – from laying of round bar in the cutted grooves with the subsequent binding with a rope to the brackets. If tree trunks were used as poles, it is logical to choose areas with a natural fork.

If there are trees which it is not a pity to spoil by attaching staples, you can use a variant with one stand or attaching the crossbar to two adjacent trunks. In the latter case the obligatory condition is the distance between the trunks of 1.2 … 1.8 m.

U-shaped construction may not be stable enough, so some craftsmen prefer A-shaped supports.

This design is the basis for the swing, so a bar is placed in the crosshairs of the A-shaped poles. But you may as well lay a round crossbar, securing it with strapping, staples or self-tapping screws.

Another way to increase stability is to add bars to the bar or a second bar with a higher or lower crossbar height.

In the presented version the uprights are made of a double board 100×25 mm, metal pipes are used for the crossbars, and their attachment is made by cutting holes in the uprights.

Metal U-shaped horizontal bar in the yard of a private house with their own hands

As an example, we present a standard design, which can be modified according to your own discretion.

For self-made will be required:

• steel pipe of square or round section, the minimum size (diameter or side) not less than 110 mm, wall thickness – 4…5 mm. The length of the two sections – 3340 mm, of which 800 mm will go underground;
• angle or strip (allowed to use rebar 20 mm or more, the remnants of any profile pipe) for the crossbar at the bottom, pieces of 300….500 mm;
• bar or tube of circular cross-section of 30…35 mm, wall thickness not less than 2.5 mm
• cement mortar with crushed stone/bitstone/slag.

Order of performance of work:

• Prepare the posts – drill holes on one side (not through!) to fix the crossbar, weld on the bottom crossbars. If you plan to install the crossbar not in the hole, you can make a semicircular groove at the top of the post;
• Assemble the U-shaped structure by connecting the crossbar to the posts by welding, solid seam. Clean up the welds, paint the product with several layers of rust-preventive paint. The lower part, which will be sunk into the ground, be sure to provide plugs. It is desirable to add here another layer of waterproofing, either by coating or rolls;
• Prepare pits at the right distance. It is better to do this after assembling the product.
• To install the assembled bar in the prepared pits, having levelled vertically, and to concrete the posts.

If you have relatively large-diameter pipes and a ready-made U-shaped crossbar, you can use the above design (the dimensions are arbitrary). By “pegs”, of course, we mean metal rods of sufficient diameter or part of the U-shaped crossbar. It is desirable to fix the connections by welding.

Variants of more complex constructions: A-stands, a complex of horizontal bars of two or three levels and bars.

Here the design is welded from a profile tube with a diameter of 30 mm, at the connection of the A-shaped supports are added braces, the bars are provided with push-pull props.

Such a turnstile, built in the courtyard of a private house with their own hands, is ideal for a large family with growing children: the posts have a perforation with a certain pitch, which allows you to change the height of the crossbars. Naturally, the cross section of the posts is increased to 50 … 100 mm, the step of the holes should not do less than 100 mm for strength reasons. Fastening of crossbars – by studs.

A modern back yard kitchen may well match the modern style of your home. The design of outdoor areas is always interesting, but also responsible. This space should be not only functional and comfortable, but also visually attractive. Moreover, it can be intended not only for cooking, but also as a place where the whole family will gather for lunch or dinner, as well as for entertaining guests. This means you need to plan a dining area and possibly a seating area.

What should your backyard kitchen design be like? We’ll show you some unconventional ideas and a few options for creative outdoor kitchen area decor, and you’re sure to find something useful for yourself.

Modern summer kitchen – plan and layout

A project like this doesn’t have to be expensive. Many people are fans of DIY projects, and all you need is a little more garden or backyard space and some creativity to design your dream kitchen. Whether you trust professional designers and contractors or choose a DIY project, an outdoor kitchen is a great investment that will add value to your home.

First and foremost, a backyard kitchen, like the main one in the house, is for cooking. The general layout of a modern summer kitchen with its functional areas generally follows that of a home kitchen – you need a food storage area, a sink, a cooking, preparation and serving area. In addition to the dining and work areas, it also includes a seating area.

When planning a summer kitchen, you have several options. The most common design styles are the kitchen island, the U-shaped island and the L-shaped layout. You can outfit the island with whatever is convenient and will fit your needs. It can be a gas grill, a sink, and a small cooktop. A U-shaped kitchen layout offers more room for a grill, a sink, some storage space and more room to work. Its compact shape also makes it ideal for a small homestead. The design allows you to entertain guests while you cook. L-shaped outdoor kitchen sets are usually larger in size and offer much more space for cooking.

Storage space in a summer kitchen allows you to keep everything you need on hand. Make sure you have plenty of cabinets and plenty of storage solutions. Stainless steel furniture is perfect for an outdoor kitchen.

Choose the right furniture for your modern summer kitchen. This includes a dining table, chairs, comfortable lounge furniture if space allows, etc.

Don’t forget the lighting. Often, outdoor gatherings happen in the evening, so it makes sense to take care of good lighting.

How to choose the best place for a summer kitchen?

It’s important to decide on the right place for the summer kitchen. It should be in a quiet corner of the site, hidden from the neighbors and surrounded by trees, bushes, flower beds. A beautiful view of the garden, a natural pond or a small fountain will make the area even more attractive. Be sure to keep the following points in mind:

• Choose a windbreak area.
• Choose a site in close proximity to a source of electricity and water.
• Make sure the structure meets all health codes and regulations.
• Typically, outdoor kitchens can be separated from the house or placed on a porch, patio or other area adjacent to the main building.

The first type is appliances and furniture outdoors or under a canopy/gazebo. Such structures require appliances and furniture that are resistant to temperature changes and will not be ruined by heavy rain or morning fog with cold dews. For example, gazebos are a great option for a freestanding summer kitchen. Open or closed, made of plastic, metal or wood, there are fantastic options with original design finishes. A modern pergola looks like a whole structure. It can accommodate a barbecue and outdoor dining area so that the owners can interact and socialize with their guests while cooking. Garden pergolas can come in a variety of geometric shapes and sizes. If you prefer this option,

The second option allows you to use sliding doors and use them to protect your visitors from the weather. Designing a summer kitchen on the veranda or an extension to the house, where one wall will be common, is a great solution when the garden area is small and you can not build a separate structure. You can also plan a heat source – a fireplace or a wood stove – on the veranda and use the summer kitchen in late summer and fall.

Stylish and functional design ideas for a modern summer kitchen

Once you’ve decided on the type and layout of your summer kitchen, it’s time to think about style. The design of the space will largely depend on the character and individual preferences of the homeowners and at the same time should combine functionality and comfort.

When choosing the style and finish of your summer kitchen project, you need to make sure that it matches the overall design and style of the main house and landscape. You don’t have to match the color scheme, finishes, architecture and style, but to fit in with the features of the overall concept.

Some homeowners prefer a light unobtrusive design with a minimum of kitchen appliances, furniture, utensils, etc. Others opt for a modern, high-tech summer kitchen with the latest technology, high-end furniture and related accessories to complete the overall impression and create a luxurious backyard space. Depending on the overall design concept, you need to choose the right building materials for your kitchen construction and finish – wood, metal, glass, decorative or natural stone, stainless steel, etc.

Once you’ve chosen your design, you need to choose your kitchen appliances. A gas or charcoal grill is usually a must. Grills can range in price from very affordable to very expensive. You will also need sinks, refrigerators, wine refrigerator, cooking extras, etc. D. Whether or not you need an oven (perhaps a pizza oven) depends on how much you expect from your summer kitchen.

We mentioned the importance of proper lighting. People tend to neglect lighting, but it helps create real coziness and comfort. Ideally, artificial light in the evening should be soft, and you can choose and combine different options – pendant lights, sconces, spotlights, table lamps, floor lamps, string lights, etc. With the help of light you can divide the space into zones, for example, the cooking area and the dining area.

The choice of furniture for a modern summer kitchen also requires attention. Upholstered furniture is comfortable, but it should be made of waterproof materials. Light and practical wooden furniture with soft cushions is a great idea, in addition, the market offers many models with smooth lines that will add modernity. Rattan furniture is another great option, suitable for the interior of the summer kitchen.

Building a farmhouse kitchen decor is a great way to add a cozy, rustic feel to any kitchen. This type of decor is perfect for making a space feel warm, inviting, and comfortable. From choosing the right furniture and fixtures, to adding the perfect accent pieces, there are a few key tips to keep in mind when creating a farmhouse kitchen decor. 

If you are looking for the right design style that combines modernity, functionality, comfort and rustic features, then farmhouse is the right style for you.

The style, sometimes also referred to as farmhouse or rustic, has perfectly embraced both modernity and elements of the past.

Today, we’re going to break down the key features of farmhouse, as well as share ideas for decorating your kitchen in this style.

Features of the farmhouse

If you dig deeper into the history of the creation of the style, it turns out that farmhouse is a kind of American country style and combines seemingly incompatible things, such as antique furniture and modern patchwork quilts.

The more elements of glass, wood and linen are used in the decoration, the better. At the same time, there will be no fear that you miss much with this or that item in the interior, because farmstyle is very flexible.

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Characteristics of the farmhouse

The main characteristics of the style can include:

• A large amount of light in the room. This is primarily achieved through the installation of additional or panoramic windows;
• The absence of a complex project. This is a great advantage of the style, as it does not require large and expensive design work, and allows you to fill the house gradually, due to its functionality;
• Practicality and convenience. Not for nothing it is called the farmhouse style, because these qualities are very important for farmers.
• Farmhouse kitchen
• The main advantage of such a kitchen will be a stylish design, simplicity and comfort. And it is not necessary to apply this style to the entire room. You can limit yourself, for example, to the working area, if you have limited space.

Just imagine: vintage clocks and decorative elements on the wall, instead of bulky cabinets with doors – open shelves with beautiful dishes in the style “under the old times” and various kitchen items, and instead of an ordinary table shape – a beautiful cut out of solid wood or wood with epoxy resin. That’s what a farmhouse style kitchen is all about!

Also an indispensable element in this style is kitchen textiles. Tablecloths with neat minimalist embroideries allow to emphasize the originality and sophisticated style of the room. The most important is that the material should be only natural: linen, cotton.

Additionally, attention should be paid to the appearance of fixtures and fittings, all with antique elements. Also wicker baskets for food and fruit will fit perfectly into the overall atmosphere.

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12 Farmhouse style kitchen design ideas

A farmhouse or agritourism style kitchen can combine many different variations: cottage, vintage, cozy, traditional… If you want such a kitchen, it’s worth taking note of simple ideas to help you decorate.

Here are some ideas for inspiration:

1. Parquet flooring, which is beautiful and is the foundation of the space,
2. Beams, which can be an integral part of the interior, especially when creating the feeling of a welcoming rural home.
3. Old-fashioned plates that add coziness and beauty.
4. Cream cabinets that will be a contrast to the dark wood.
5. Heavy raw wood countertops.
6. Wooden walls.
7. Greens, fresh and vibrant, either in pots or dried.
8. Wooden dishes and white dishes.
9. Baskets, painting trays on the walls.
10. Pendant lights.
11. Fireplace.
12. Brick blocks and frames.

Modernizing your orange oak kitchen with modern decor can be a great way to add a fresh and contemporary look to your space. With a few simple updates, you can transform your kitchen from dated and tired to vibrant and stylish. Whether you are looking to make a big change or just want to update your existing design, here are some tips on how to modernize your orange oak kitchen with modern decor. 

1. Paint the fronts of your kitchen furniture

This will not only refresh the doors, hiding the traces of time, but also change the color to a more current / light / cheerful.

To paint old MDF film fronts, it is recommended that you first remove the film. To do this, it will be necessary to heat it up well. Then the MDF needs to be sanded down, wiped with a dry cloth and degreased with a special agent. The next step is priming. Acrylic primer for wood and MDF is suitable. Priming is necessary several times (letting the previous layer dry), until the MDF surface is absolutely smooth to the touch. The primer can be lightly sanded before painting. Acrylic paints, also recommended for wood, are suitable for painting.

Facades with plastic coating are painted the same way, but the plastic (laminate) do not need to remove. It is washed, well sanded, washed and degreased again. Then comes a primer with a high level of adhesion, designed for problematic surfaces (such as glass and plastic). Among paints, it is better to choose one that is recommended specifically for furniture.

Veneered doors should be washed with a degreaser and wiped dry, then sanded. Priming is generally not necessary. Acrylic wood and metal paint is good for staining.

2. Remove the fronts from the upper cabinets, leaving them open.

If the doors are quite bad, but the frames are still good – from the cabinets you can leave only the “boxes”. This is a very current option – even new kitchens are sometimes ordered in such a design.

The inner surfaces of the cabinets can also be painted or wallpapered.

3. Removing the fronts of the lower cabinets, closing them with curtains

The use of “skirts” instead of doors is typical not only for country and rustic, but also for modern design (including loft).

4. Replace part or all of the upper cabinets with open shelves

Another common solution, even for new interiors. Such storage spaces will cost mere pennies, while the work area will become lighter and visually lighter. By the way, the shelves can be constructed from elements of old furniture.

5. Decorate the fronts

The doors of the set can be subjected not only to painting, but also other finishes. For example, cover them with thick vinyl wallpaper. This method is suitable only for those cabinets that are remote from the sink and stove. Also facades can be covered with PVC-foil or cloth (the fabric top covered with varnish), tiled with mosaics, cover with planks, etc.

6. Change handles

Fittings seem to be a trifle, but very important. New topical handles will give the old headset a much more modern look.

7. Tile or mosaic the old countertop

It’s common to replace a countertop with a new one, even with a budget kitchen renovation. After all, the cost of laminated chipboard countertops is not at all low. But if you do not want to remove and remove the old surface, and then bring in and install a new one, there is a way out. You can tile or mosaic the lost look countertop. Yes, it’s not exactly cheap, but it’s pretty fast. And you can buy the easiest tile to solve this problem, on the stock (leftovers).

If the remnants are different – no big deal. Combined cladding is quite acceptable.

8. Paint the tiles

Tiles on the walls and on the floor can be covered with paint – this will refresh the surface and change the color. We wrote about this in detail in the article “How to paint tiles”.

9. Cover the apron with a new material

If the wall in the working area has more than deplorable appearance, you can hide it behind laminated chipboard, MDF panels, plywood sheets, mirrors, linings, etc. In this case, the old finish of the apron does not have to be removed.

10. Wallpaper the wall in the work area and cover it with glass.

Tempered glass, if it is not decorated with a photo print, is not too expensive. This method of mounting the apron is easy, clean and fast. However, the old trim, if any, will most likely have to be removed.

11. Tile the floor with PVC tiles.

There are vinyl coverings in the form of tiles, the size of which corresponds to the dimensions of the floor tiles. However, there are also variations under the parquet. They can be glued directly on the tiles or planks. This will quickly and very inexpensively update and transform the floor. Of course, such finishing will not last too long, but as a temporary option will justify itself.

12. Lay a large rug.

Carpeting in the kitchen is not so bad. It’s warm and cozy with them. And the order is not difficult to maintain, if you have a vacuum cleaner in the house. It is better, of course, to take a dark carpet, so that stains (and they will appear sooner or later) will not be so noticeable.

Hygienic are woven mats – they can be cleaned with a rag and mop just like a regular floor.

13. Decorate the wall near the dining table

Stylish and comfortable dining area can become the main decoration of the kitchen interior. It will draw attention to itself, making the flaws of the old kitchen much less noticeable. Fortunately, to transform the dining area is much easier than the working area.

Particular attention should be paid to the wall, near which the table is located. If the finishing in the kitchen is very old and there is no way to change it, then you should refresh at least this wall. It is not necessary to remove the old coatings and thoroughly prepare the surface. Even over old wallpaper, tiles or paint you can install, for example, clapboard, panels, laminate, mirror or glass panels, etc.

14. Change the dining chairs.

This will instantly change the look of the kitchen (for the better, of course). Especially if the choice falls not on the classic elegant models, but on something modern and/or bright.

15. Introduce bright accents.

Colored elements will make even the moodiest kitchen more lively, modern and cheerful. However, it is important to avoid chaos and excessive mottling. Accents should be one or two colors. The number of bright details should also be limited. Everything is good in moderation.

16. Decorate the interior

Decorative little things turn the kitchen into a nice cozy nest. Minimalism is good in an expensive interpretation, and the old interior should be decorated properly – new elements of decoration will draw much of the attention from the old surfaces and worn items.

Wall decorations, hiding old decorations (paintings, posters, mirrors), baskets and boxes for storage, live plants (visually freshening up the interior) will be appropriate. However, do not overdo it; do not let the decor clutter up your kitchen.

Popular trends in kitchen decor today are quite a lot. This is a Scandinavian style, and neoclassical, it is certainly and loft. However, all of them are developing, borrowing from each other different solutions. For example, one of the trendy styles in 2022 – japandi combines Scandinavian and Japanese styles. This style is characterized by coziness, warmth and tranquility.

All modern interior styles today are mixed and are equally distinguished by one interesting feature – brevity. Both classic interiors and industrial interiors are becoming minimalistic, neat, restrained and cozy. So what will be in trend in 2023 and what style to choose to design the kitchen will be relevant for many years?

Warm minimalism – the trendy interior style of 2023!

This year we have already talked about the main demanded trend in residential interiors today and it is warm minimalism – it combines the aesthetics of minimalism and a sense of homeliness by using various features of other styles. This style is perfectly balanced and versatile thanks to its color scheme – pastel and neutral shades with natural materials such as stone or wood.

Next year this trend will be even more in demand due to its versatile form, but at the same time transformed by more juicy accent solutions. This is especially true for kitchen furniture, because fashion does not stand still, there are new color solutions from manufacturers of paints, new textile design, different decors in the facade materials and finishing materials. We present you kitchen interiors in the most popular styles with trendy colors that are laconic and cozy.

Kitchen with the natural character and charm of Provence in sage color

Sage is a natural and natural shade of green, which in turn gives the room a freshness, perfectly combined with classic black or white, as well as with wood and natural stone. This color and its shades are ideal for the soulful atmosphere of a rustic home, calm, peaceful and at one with nature.

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Corsica milled fronts

Facades with milled “Corsica” is a universal and one of the most balanced types of facades. The design has a classic millwork on one side, but the beveled smooth transition makes the kitchen minimalist, without obvious cognate signs of a particular style. These fronts would be suitable for classic, neoclassical, Scandinavian and of course Provence style kitchens.

Kitchen with the atmosphere of coziness and Scandinavian character in the color “Indigo”

Indigo is the dark blue color of harmony and serenity on the one hand, and comfort on the other. Kitchen in this color will look solid, especially when combined with wood decors. Beige fronts with a mauve hue are perfect for accents, and at different times of day they take on a common color. For example, during the day they are almost white, and in the evening with additional artificial light they take on a shade of ‘Coffee with milk’.

Milled fronts ‘Viking’

This type of facade milling is the most minimalistic and versatile. The design is minimalistic without being massive and rigid. Will suit almost any style of interior, including even such a modern trend as minimalism with straight monochrome fronts.

Kitchen in the luxurious style of restrained “Classics” in mauve

A light shade of purple is a pastel and light, mysterious and very delicate color for the interior, especially in a shade that only partially resembles purple. Its hue, which borders on beige, makes it versatile and neutral. It integrates perfectly with any lighting scenario, both in natural and artificial light.

Hanover milled fronts

The design of fronts with milled “Hanover” is a restrained, austere and yet expressive design for the kitchen, which is ideal if you prefer a classic, neoclassical, Scandinavian style, but in a concise form. Despite the emergence of modern and fashionable trends, classic kitchens remain popular and in demand. Versatile and impeccably stylish – the unshakable basis of the interior in the original classic style.

Kitchen with industrial austerity and warmth of loft style in “Taupe” color

“Taupe” is one of the most versatile and sought-after pastel shades of brown. It is soothing and relaxing depending on the surroundings. Combined with dark brown fronts and black countertops, it adds softness, warmth, and comfort to an austere kitchen, as if smoothing out the sharp corners and straight lines of industrial space.

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Milled facades “Line”

The “Line” line of facades is a fluted milled design in modern and classic formats. In this version, we have chosen the milling with smooth lines and shallow grooves to make the industrial atmosphere with strict lines softer at the expense of smooth shapes.

An understated neoclassical kitchen with a bright accent in the color “Terracotta”

Terracotta is a defiant, extravagant and energetic red in a soft floral hue. Neoclassical interior, combines tradition and innovation, retains all its charm over time, resisting a radical change in trends. Therefore, the restraint of light milled fronts is balanced by a bright accent. This color is pleasant to perceive in everyday use.

The milled fronts of Delia

Delia is a milled fronts with a pronounced neoclassical character. The pattern of the milling combines both strict lines and graceful smooth transitions, complementing each other, and thus combining the expressive classical lines and the restraint of modern minimalist style.